Pic of OB on Monday

Major tubes going on the past few days out here

NICE.

You get out in any of it yet ? How is that break by the way ? slow ? medium ? super dump you on your face fast ?

Wooooah. Very nice.

OB is a mean heavy break. Fast racey peaks around, but a grueling paddle out. Ive had times out there where I didnt make it out back. Ive had my worst poundings there and the current will drag you a mile down the coast at times. Very shifty and unpredictable and usually non stop paddling trying to survive or catch up to a peak. Honestly 9 times out of 10 I hate it. But if you manage to snag a ride its unforgettable. Ive had ridiculously long rides there with so much speed. The past few days I havent bothered paddling out since im out of my league when that much swell pushes into that spot. That beach loves to punish. And Ive had days where I thought It was a good idea to paddle into 8ft+ there only to get worked over pretty bad. Im hoping the swell will back away some and leave me with something I have more of a chance with. For the guys that are good enough, some major scores to be had for sure.

SICK! That's DOH on the inside haha!

Crazy how it is so glassy on the outside but washed out closer to shore.

HAHAH... "9 times out of 10 i hate it" by Trifish. that about sums this place up... i had the best day of my life on a day like this in the pic, but this is rare so i have had way more shitty days wondering if i am a good surfer or not b/c this place is tricky. btw you have to get past your fears and not worry about the poundings on days like this b/c look at the rewards