San Diego to Santa Barbara

I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 09 11, 9:57 am

So I have been practicing a lot...with anyone that I can pull into the water with me. My dad, who use to surf back in the day, went out with me last week. He was so stoked...he had gotten a wetsuit and board and was finally going to do it. I was a little bit scared because he is 62, and the water can be challenging for me, and I would say I am in pretty good physical shape. Instead of staying in the white water and getting comfy after being out of the water 40 plus years, he went straight out (men never change). He got slammed a few times (which made my heart skip until he would poke his head back up) and when he started coming out of the water he was nearly out of breadth and was very dizzy (like walking like he was drunk). I unleashed his board and grabbed it from him and walked him back to the towels. It totally freaked me out (I thought he was having a heart attack). It also totally bummed me out, because I really wanted to do this with him and enjoy something he loved so much.I am afraid maybe physically he just can't do it. He looked pretty sad too.

As for me, I got a lighter board and fell comfortable enough to go in the line up and chill.I still keep my distance, but I can control the board and myself. It is really amazing to just sit there and relax. I still am not waiting long enough to let the wave grab me before standing up, which means I don't stand up very long before I fall, but I am no longer playing in the white wash or having someone push me into waves. Also.... I am learning to turn quicker which is nearly impossible on a 9 foot board.

May 09 11, 11:33 am

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 09 11, 11:33 am

I hope dad doesn't give up, 40 years is a long time. I'm 51, if I miss a week or two I feel it and if i miss a month or two I really feel it.

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 10 11, 8:53 am

Gotta take Dad out on the small days, and at seal beach, old mans, trails, someplace real slow and mellow.

Steve, you do pretty darn good keepin up out there man. You are a rockstar.
Sorry about sunday. i was waiting for a decent wave and ended up sitting out there an extra 30 mins or so. I cut my feet all to crap walking in too :(

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 10 11, 9:56 am

SteveO, you have more paddle power in ya than I see in people a fraction of your age!!

Smiles, you need to consider taking your dad to a much more mellow spot. As for the premature stand ups, that goes away after a while. Right now you’re not really keyed into when you’ve actually caught the wave. This improves over time. As for turning the board, sit yourself way far back on the board and you’ll find you can spin that thing around pretty darn fast even from a full fledge paddle.

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 10 11, 11:12 am

SurfJunkie wrote:Gotta take Dad out on the small days, and at seal beach, old mans, trails, someplace real slow and mellow.



Rob wrote:
Smiles, you need to consider taking your dad to a much more mellow spot.


i've said that multiple times now on her other post. hmm...

and it's not just your dad, but you too. i'm sure you didn't need a new board to help you "turn quicker". it's totally possible to make turns on bigger boards. there are people out there on 15 foot SUPs that can turn just fine. you're just new and el porto isn't the best place to learn.

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 10 11, 2:30 pm

Whatever. I say throw yourself into stuff that's bigger than you think you can handle. That's the best way I've found that you progress faster. Either you're out there on a small day and not really concentrating on what you're doing or you're out there on decent sized waves, giving it your full effort and attention.

Keep hammering away at it, it'll pay off!

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 10 11, 2:59 pm

i don't agree with that. if you can't ride a wave consistently and you're throwing yourself out there, not only will it take you longer to learn but you will be a hazard to the others in the water.

i know what you mean though. but i think you should do that once you start to get better and become more consistent. you're not going to learn if you're not challenged. but on the other hand, you need to get the basic skills down first before throwing yourself out into the danger.

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 10 11, 3:05 pm

Abso- My previous board was really heavy. The guy that sold it to me gave me the new board for free SCORE (it has a few cosmetic scratches and one ding-but much lighter-and I think he felt bad seeing my struggle with it). The old board just was really heaving to carry down to the surf (by myself) and carry back to my car...especially that day I nearly drowned. I have a few friends that have been at this for awhile and agreed its a little too much for my frame and strength. Plus, the old one was really wide, and this one is a little narrower so I can get my little legs around, have more room to kinda of paddle my little feet and turn. So I didn't "need a new board" but it helps. If its all in my mind...but is working, that is alright too.

As for spots. We were at the far end of El Porto near Marine, so not really all kinds of crazy either, and I picked a rather small day. I am also surfing in SM too, which is as empty as can be. Pops wanted to stay in MB, so I couldn't really argue with someone that was going to go out with me so I could practice (buddy system is safe, but sucks cuz I have no one local). The reality is if I waited for the perfect location, on the perfect day, I would never get out there. I am going out when it is smart, when I have time (limited...corporate job and two little ones), and to a closes location that I won't injure myself or others at. But that does mean I am thrown around a lot and learning the hard way.

Rob-Yeah my friends were saying you just need two more strokes a lot. I think I am getting close. Plus now we end everything with "you just need two more strokes." Soon.

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 10 11, 3:15 pm

absoludicrous wrote:i don't agree with that. if you can't ride a wave consistently and you're throwing yourself out there, not only will it take you longer to learn but you will be a hazard to the others in the water.

i know what you mean though. but i think you should do that once you start to get better and become more consistent. you're not going to learn if you're not challenged. but on the other hand, you need to get the basic skills down first before throwing yourself out into the danger.

She's obviously smart about the situation and is fully aware of her surroundings and capabilities. Again, if you keep playing in fluff, your surfing will be exactly that...Fluff.

However, if she's getting to be on the brink of getting surfing down, (whilst keeping everybody around safe) why not step it up and challenge yourself? It's called progression dude. You try and fail, fail, fail, and then finally succeed. And guess what, when she succeeds in the legit surf, she's going to be waaay further along than some fluff rider that's only surfing the fluff waves.

Re: I can kinda of be in a line up/Dad update

May 10 11, 3:18 pm

T.I. wrote:
absoludicrous wrote:i don't agree with that. if you can't ride a wave consistently and you're throwing yourself out there, not only will it take you longer to learn but you will be a hazard to the others in the water.

i know what you mean though. but i think you should do that once you start to get better and become more consistent. you're not going to learn if you're not challenged. but on the other hand, you need to get the basic skills down first before throwing yourself out into the danger.

She's obviously smart about the situation and is fully aware of her surroundings and capabilities. Again, if you keep playing in fluff, your surfing will be exactly that...Fluff.

However, if she's getting to be on the brink of getting surfing down, (whilst keeping everybody around safe) why not step it up and challenge yourself? It's called progression dude. You try and fail, fail, fail, and then finally succeed. And guess what, when she succeeds in the legit surf, she's going to be waaay further along than some fluff rider that's only surfing the fluff waves.


so you're saying san o, seal, trails, bolsa chica, and other easier breaks are fluff?