I Surf Because...

Billabong has this whole "I surf because.." promotion floating through all the pro's on their team..

I'm curious for all the Tribal Surf locals... How would you complete it? Why do you do it?


I surf because...

My dad took us to the beach all the time at Santa Monica when I was a little guy (rubber rafts and body surfing). Then came boogie boards. I surfed when I was a kid from age 13 to 20 because when I watched others surf I wanted to be a part of that. Age 21 I moved away. I Bass fished for 25 years when I moved from so- cal beaches to the nor-cal valley. I fished mostly for fun and got into a tourney now and then and did pretty well. I then got into Big Bass fishing. I did very well at it. I got into 3 Mags ( FLW, Bass West and even one in France) and had all kinds of people wanting to be friends.
Well, I had enough people do me very wrong, Got used a little for others gain and all that stuff.
So I dropped it like a bad habit and took up surfing again haha! Now I feel it helps me feel free out there. It washes it all away. Even if just for a short time. In a way it's like Big bass or trophy hunting. You are out there in hope of catching that one wave to Stoke your day, week, year maybe even life. I think the Stoke of a Good wave lasts longer then a big bass. I get so caught up in sports I do that I just do one sport at a time for the most part. The kids are all moved out and so I thought it's time to hit the beach again. I wish now I still would have gone now and then. But hey, Loving it. It's all new again to me. My Sign is Cancer (crab) I need water haha!
Was that to long?

So I can get hot chicks!

I surf because it keeps me sane! Although I love being a full-time Stay at Home Mom, it can get pretty tedious dealing with two quarreling girls every day. When I surf, I'm happier, more patient and a better Mom/Wife to my family!

I surf because it keeps me sane! ...I'm happier, more patient...

ditto with the sanity, patience and i'll add centering my core...

hey jen, pretty sure i parked right next to you and your hubby (or bf) this past saturday at bolsa rj. he commented on how cold it was that morning and i replied how i've been wearing a 4/3 all last yr. ha. i joined a sesh with my old hb neighborhood crew at seapoint. i'll say hi to you guys next time. cheers!

hey jen, pretty sure i parked right next to you and your hubby (or bf) this past saturday at bolsa rj. he commented on how cold it was that morning and i replied how i've been wearing a 4/3 all last yr. ha. i joined a sesh with my old hb neighborhood crew at seapoint. i'll say hi to you guys next time. cheers!

I vaguely remember our exchange....and yes, that was my hubby, Alan. Wasn't it SOOO cold on Saturday? Fun waves in front of the jetty, but I was frozen after an hour. Oh, and for sure, say "hi" when you see us next time! It's always nice to put a face to the name.

I surf because I have always been a water person and I enjoy the feeling of being free from all of my obligations on land. With my life so hectic, I love the carefree attitude of the surf community.

Flow state. I didn't know there was some actual science behind it until I read "West of Jesus" by Steven Kotler. About this dude with lyme disease that decides to spend what little energy the disease hadn't taken on surfing. Anyway he touches on the research behind flow state - that moment when you are entirely focused on what is going on at that time. Athletes experience it when they are "in the zone" and surfers experience it in a particularly strong dosage when they are on a wave.

Spending every other waking moment either regretting about something that happened yesterday or worrying about what's going to happen tomorrow, being able to spend some time in the now has to be a good thing.

Flow state. I didn't know there was some actual science behind it until I read "West of Jesus" by Steven Kotler. About this dude with lyme disease that decides to spend what little energy the disease hadn't taken on surfing. Anyway he touches on the research behind flow state - that moment when you are entirely focused on what is going on at that time. Athletes experience it when they are "in the zone" and surfers experience it in a particularly strong dosage when they are on a wave.

Spending every other waking moment either regretting about something that happened yesterday or worrying about what's going to happen tomorrow, being able to spend some time in the now has to be a good thing.

Totally agree. I think too much in the future (what grad school will be like, whether I will have a job, etc.) and surfing is one of the only things I can do to live in the now.

Like I just added to my signature...

I surf because it gets me off this crazy, merry-go-round, life on land.