San Diego to Santa Barbara

Size isn't everything or, "Where to surf this weekend?"

Sep 01 11, 10:29 am

So I'm looking at the surf report that's predicting swell for *everywhere* this weekend and trying to decide where to go.

Problem is I'm pretty intimidated by the forecast, most of my usual spots are forecast to be over 6'. Anything over 4' - 5' is typically out of my comfort zone. I've paddled out in 5' - 6' surf w/ the occasional 6+' set wave and just got pummeled, but would like to learn to ride the bigger stuff.

I've found though, that when reading surf reports size is often over or underestimated, and wave size doesn't tell you everything anyway. I'd probably have an easier time on slow-rolling 6-footers than 4' closeouts, and don't know how to judge that based on the reports.

I go to Trails regularly, and that's typically a pretty mellow breaking wave, but predictions for Saturday are 6' - 8'. 6' is usually my absolute limit, and to be honest I haven't even *ridden* a wave that large yet. Just paddled out in it and got beaten up pretty good.

Add to that, I'm still trying to get the hang of riding Squatty's big-guy twin, and having a bit of a challenge learning to duck it. (Maybe too much foam for my scrawny 165' lbs? That extra volume is great for paddling, not so much for duck-diving.) I can duck it fine in 3' - 4' stuff, but had it out in 5+' and just found myself getting dragged in reverse, and feeling like I was going nowhere. My fear is I'd totally screw up in the bigger stuff and find myself going over the falls backwards, and getting completely pounded...

Maybe I should just stick to 3' - 5' Bolsa this weekend?

Or should I push myself a bit and try for someplace bigger? Even Old Man's is supposed to be 5' - 8' on Saturday. Does it still break pretty gently there when it gets bigger? Would I even get any waves there on a short board?

Decisions, decisons...

Sep 01 11, 12:42 pm

Re: Size isn't everything or, "Where to surf this weekend?"

Sep 01 11, 12:42 pm

San O? Deheny?

Go to a smaller mushier type of wave maybe.. then surf the insiders. Might be fun still. :D Unfortunately, I dont know much about breaks down there.. so I cant tell you for sure. Good luck though bud! If you feel very uncomfortable and don't think you'll be able to ride the waves, don't paddle out.

You aren't trying to get on the World Tour.. You dont want to endanger yourself or the others in the water if you are that uncomfortable. Find something that looks like you can push yourself but not over the top. :D Have fun.

Re: Size isn't everything or, "Where to surf this weekend?"

Sep 01 11, 1:10 pm

BoarderDave wrote: Find something that looks like you can push yourself but not over the top. :D Have fun.


Yeah. Most of the breaks down south, even the usually mellow ones, sound like they'll be bigger than my comfort zone (6' - 8' at Trails, 6' - 8' at San O.).

I was just wondering if a 6' - 8' at Old Man's or Trails was actually a mellower wave to get into than your typical fast-breaking HB closeout at 5'. If it was I'd be golden, and really stoked to ride something that big, if it *wasn't* I'd be kinda screwed 'cause it looks like nearly everything further south is gonna be big this weekend, so I wouldn't have too many bail-out options around there.

If I go to HB I can stop and take a look at Goldenwest (5' - 7') or 17th Street ('4 - 6'), if I wanna push myself, and if it looks too hairy I can just hop back in the car and head down to Bolsa (3' - 5').

Re: Size isn't everything or, "Where to surf this weekend?"

Sep 01 11, 2:58 pm

Hey trev! Where ya been and Howz the bullock? All I can say is it will go great in sizable waves.

My only advice is go check out the conds in person and observe for 15 or so mins to get an idea on the upper limit. San o, ol mans etc down there are usual softer that up here in my experience. But i've been in grinding conds down there. And today it looked big, ugly and grindy.

Re: Size isn't everything or, "Where to surf this weekend?"

Sep 01 11, 3:11 pm

squattyjp wrote:Hey trev! Where ya been and Howz the bullock? All I can say is it will go great in sizable waves.

My only advice is go check out the conds in person and observe for 15 or so mins to get an idea on the upper limit. San o, ol mans etc down there are usual softer that up here in my experience. But i've been in grinding conds down there. And today it looked big, ugly and grindy.


I haven't been able to get out much lately, which is why I'm so conflicted over this weekend. Take advantage of good swell and push myself, or take it easy and just try to have fun in smaller stuff.

Leaning towards the latter, 'cause I just wanna get out and actually be able to ride some waves. In the big stuff I might just get continually pummeled and end up paddling back to shore after a beating and sitting the rest of the session out.

You'll be disappointed to hear I dinged the bullock already. It was my 3rd time out on it. :( I was sooooo mad. Got tossed into the cobbles at trails while riding whitewater in on my belly. Had it checked out at a surf shop, 'cause I'm not a good judge of how bad these things are yet, and the guy said it just cracked the gloss coat a little and doesn't need major repairs (I've been meaning to sand it and put a thin coat of solarez over the dinged bit, but haven't yet.). Still bummed about that.

Re: Size isn't everything or, "Where to surf this weekend?"

Sep 02 11, 3:01 pm

inlander... no worries. just get it fixed and you'll be all good. i don't think this weekend everywhere will be as big as yesterday and this morning. this morning was not as big as yesterday. so almost everywhere should be easier for ya! cya out there!

Re: Size isn't everything or, "Where to surf this weekend?"

Sep 02 11, 8:13 pm

squattyjp wrote:inlander... no worries. just get it fixed and you'll be all good. i don't think this weekend everywhere will be as big as yesterday and this morning. this morning was not as big as yesterday. so almost everywhere should be easier for ya! cya out there!


Think I'll head to HB in the morning, and if it doesn't look too gnarly try out 17th St. or Goldenwest, and if it looks scary, head down to Bolsa.

Anyone paddling out down there tomorrow?