War stories from abroad.
May 08 09, 10:54 am
Well being back home for a month was so nice even though I did more work than surfed.
On oahu I keep a old tc board a really fun 6'10'' 0r was it 7' 8'' ?
Any way went out at makaha on a fun size day to play around in the inside bowle section getting barraled on each wave not to say i made all of them .
on one wave I droped in came off the bottom hit the lip as i was coming back down the wave droped out from under me .
I came up pulled my leash and I had only 1/2 a board it snaped under my back foot.
Swam in an gave the board to a kid on the beach and went home kinda sad coos i had the board since i was 19 and erick arakawa shaped it for me byhand before he got into computer shapping.
with this I started riding my 9'0'' i took with me and went to maui to see my brother and surf a week .
we got lot of fun waves at pavillons also at spreckelsvill also Paia bay , honolua bay.
The day before flying home to cali we were out and surfed some fun waves at paia bay i think and I was carving , s turning and doing floters off the close out .
on one wave seamed if my board got really loose so i fliped it over to see i was now riding a twin fin and my middle fin was gone .
I was so bumed another board damaged and it was only a coule days after snaping the tc.
Oh well things happen in big surf so now to do repairs on the 9'0'' so can get her back in watter coos i just cant do the short board thing much do to my back ..
May 08 09, 4:25 pm
Hey sol great to have you back man ... sorry about the board mishaps but at least you got to have some epic sessions. You know that kid is gonna glue that Arakawa back together, learn on it, and become the next Gerry Lopez haha.
By the way, great photos – the one of the waves and crazy lighting is nuts.
May 08 09, 5:22 pm
ya the kid had the no way look when i said he can have it and ran off to his buddys on the beach
It stoked to to be able to make him a happy grom id say he was 10 or so years old..
in a way its how I got my surfing start some one gave me there board when i was just a grom in elamentry school.
Board was missing glass on bottom but i did not care I had a stick and would go out in the waves till it got heavy.
one day after it sat for some weeks i did my first glass job on it with help of a older surfer who lived behind me who hung out with the beach boys and rabbet..
ah good times if you need more advice on your trip sendme a privet message with when you are going whare you staying and ill give ya things to see and do
May 09 09, 9:36 pm
I am actually heading to Oahu and Kauai in 2 weeks, can't wait. Staying in South Oahu and then going to Turtle Bay and then heading to South Kauai. Should be a blast.
One question though....
Where can I surf that I want get in a fight or somthing?
Just wanna get some waves not bad vibes.
Glad you got some good waves though.
May 09 09, 11:46 pm
Prity much any break in town is cool . when in the line up just show respect and wate for your wave.
May 10 09, 6:39 am
CHarvey wrote:Where can I surf that I want get in a fight or somthing?
I think if you yell out at the top of your lungs, "You're all so barney you don't even know you're barneys!!" ... you should find the fight you want.
Sorry bro couldn't resist that one.
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